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    Kashiwazaki Ne-waza instructional video.


    Posts : 71
    Join date : 2013-01-03
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    Post by The_Harvest on Thu Jan 03, 2013 5:48 am

    23 For all have sinned, and come short of the glory of God; 24 Being justified freely by his grace through the redemption that is in Christ Jesus:25 Whom God hath set forth to be a propitiation through faith in his blood, to declare his righteousness for the remission of sins that are past, through the forbearance of God;26 To declare, I say, at this time his righteousness: that he might be just, and the justifier of him which believeth in Jesus.
    Roman 3:23-26

    8 For by grace are ye saved through faith; and that not of yourselves: it is the gift of God:
    9 Not of works, lest any man should boast.
    Ephesians 2:8-10

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    Post by Freelancer on Sat Mar 23, 2013 8:07 am

    Here's the full video:

    It would be wonderful if somebody would translate it.

    "You miss 100% of the shots you don't take."

    Wayne Gretzky

    Posts : 118
    Join date : 2013-01-15
    Age : 36
    Location : Norway

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    Post by cuivien on Sat Mar 23, 2013 8:28 pm

    Freelancer wrote:
    It would be wonderful if somebody would translate it.

    Indeed. However, the time and effort needed for a single individual to translate a 2+ hrs video is far beyond what anyone who has not tried their hand at translating understands. A couple of years ago I was part of a 3-man-team who translated 青木真也 Aoki Shinya's instructional video (link here if interesting). We didn't get any money for this, as it was intended for distribution inside our club only, and we primarily worked after school. Still, it took almost 4 months of work Neutral

    There is a number of excellent instructional materials (not just from Japan) who will probably go untranslated forever.. Crying or Very sad

    Modern dôjô yaburi

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    Post by judoratt on Sun Mar 24, 2013 4:14 pm

    Great videos a picture tells 1,000 words. I wouldn't want these translated. There is some great judo here. sunny

    Posts : 21
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    Location : Belgrade

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    Post by Freelancer on Mon Mar 25, 2013 10:26 am

    judoratt wrote:Great videos a picture tells 1,000 words. I wouldn't want these translated. There is some great judo here. sunny

    Without translation we might miss some important details, wouldn't you agree? Or I might miss them, anyway, since I don't have as much experience as you. Smile

    "You miss 100% of the shots you don't take."

    Wayne Gretzky

    Posts : 309
    Join date : 2012-12-30
    Age : 63
    Location : Seattle

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    Post by judoratt on Mon Mar 25, 2013 11:03 am

    Freelancer wrote:
    judoratt wrote:Great videos a picture tells 1,000 words. I wouldn't want these translated. There is some great judo here. sunny

    Without translation we might miss some important details, wouldn't you agree? Or I might miss them, anyway, since I don't have as much experience as you:)

    There is two hours of world class judo, just take one move and work on it, I think everything you need is there.
    I bet I have sat through 100 demonstrations not in english and usualy get alot out of it. Put the video of one move you want to learn on your lap top and take it to tha dojo and figure it out. I just don't think Kashiwasaki needs to be transulated. Smile But then again what do I know. Smile

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    Join date : 2013-06-13

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    Post by Taohn on Thu Jun 13, 2013 2:46 pm

    Freelancer wrote:Here's the full video:

    It would be wonderful if somebody would translate it.

    Yeah, I've been meaning to get around to it for some time...Always loved Kashiwazaki.  Guess now is as good a time as any.
    Pictures do tell a thousand words, but he is talking for a reason Smile

    Anyway, here's the first part. I'm working with the DVD so the time codes might be a couple seconds off. If somebody wants to use youtube's caption function with my translation and re-upload that full length video, feel free (timing is a lot of work!).

    Intro and Osaekomi:

    Among the techniques of judo, it has long been said that groundwork is a battle of intelligence.
    Developing new techniques and refining them on one’s own, and then adapting them to the partner’s movements…
    That’s where the fun of groundwork lies and that’s where I focused my efforts.
    Part 1: The Fundamentals of Osaekomi (Pins)
    Osaekomi Fundamentals and Transitions
    Yokoshiho-gatame (side control) 1
    I’ll now explain my thinking on the fundamentals of groundwork.
    Groundwork includes, osae-waza (pins), shime-waza (chokes and strangles), and kansetsu-waza (joint locks), but among these, I think pins are the fundamentals of groundwork and that yokoshiho-gatame (YSG hereafter) is the most basic of these.
    From YSG, it’s very easy to transition to tateshiho-gatame (mount; TSG hereafter) or kuzure kamishiho-gatame (modified north-south; KKSG hereafter).
    For that reason, I view YSG as the centre point of groundwork.
    There are many forms of YSG.
    Holding the head with a hand between the legs…
    Gripping the hem of the partner’s gi to control the hips…
    Applying a joint lock, keeping one’s balance like this….
    There are many forms of YSG, but, for me, gripping the belt with the arm over the shoulder, like this, is the fundamental one.
    This is because your power applies directly to the partner when gripping the belt and you can control the movement of his hips to a degree.
    Like this…Move a bit…
    Just like that
    There are two essential points when it comes to pins.
     The first is to use your strength to immobilize a single part of your partner’s body. You do use strength, but it’s important to apply it to your partner efficiently.
    The second point is to maintain your balance.
    In the case of YSG, you’re already using your right hand. Pulling your partner’s belt towards you, you secure his shoulder and lower back.
    You keep your balance with the left hand and right foot.
    You plant the sole of your foot solidly on the mat to brace yourself.
    If your partner tries to roll you over (teppo-gaeshi), you resist like this.
    If you extend your left leg to keep your balance, he’ll trap your leg.
    This negate the pin.
    So, keep your left leg under your body as much as possible, like sitting in seiza (on your shins).

    I tuck my leg away and keep my balance with my right foot and left hand.
    One more time.
    In this position, I pin my partner.
    Struggle a bit, please.
    If you get up on your toes, your hips will float up like this. If you keep your foot flat, your hips will settle solidly into this position.
    So that’s why you should keep it in this position. If you go up on your toes, your hips come up and it will be easier for the partner to grab your ankle.
    It’ll be easier for him to trap your leg.
    For that reason, I think it’s best to pin him like this, keeping the foot flat and laying your weight on him.
    However, if the partner’s arm slips out while you’re moving…out to your side like this,
    then the ideal position for your legs is this.
    Bend at your right knee and try to pinch his arm and face together, keeping your balance like this.
    Yokoshiho-Gatame 2
    It’s very easy to transition between YSG and KKSG. Or rather, if you’ve got YSG down, you’ll definitely have to make use of this transition.
    When in YSG, most guys will try to trap you leg.
    If he grabs your ankle---or your pants--- you’ll lose your strength in your leg.
    So, as soon as the partner gets his grip, I quickly do koshikiri (switching base).
    By doing koshikiri, I can break his grip.
    One more time.
    My partner got my ankle.
    I switch my base and break his grip.
    After that, my balance is bad in this position, so I switch to KKSG.
    I’ll do it in one continuous motion.
    I got the pin, and he grabs my ankle. Break the grip, and back. Just like this.
    Switching base is an absolute necessity in groundwork.
    In this kind of YSG…
    The partner will try to roll you over this way.
    When this happens, your right leg is bent, so you can’t keep you balance that way. You have only your left hand.
    Therefore, I take the opportunity to transition to TSG.
    Kuzure Kamishiho-Gatame (KKSG; modified north-south)
    I’ll now go over the main points of KKSG.
    With my right arm, I go over the partner’s shoulder and grip the belt.
    My left hand goes under his near arm and grabs the collar, or…
    Grips the belt along with my other hand.
    What’s really important is your legs, which are maintaining your balance.
    I extend my right leg like this, bend my left leg deeply, and make an “L” with that ankle.
    Just like this.
    If you fold your leg under yourself like this…. when the partner bridges into you,
    you won’t have good balance, so make a nice, strong “L” with your ankle to maintain the position.
    There are also some people who extend their legs like this.
    It should be okay if you’re heavy, but if you’re a lightweight and extend your legs the partner will immediately go after your leg.
    Therefore, I consider this to be the ideal position for the legs.
    I’ll explain a little more about the hand gripping the belt.
    When the partner is very large…
    If my arm is all the way over his shoulder, sometimes he can use my own hand as a pivot and roll me over.
    If he’s very heavy or has a large frame, little by little I slide my arm up like this.
    So when he tries to turn over, I can stop him at this point.
    However, if your partner is a thinner person, having your arm here will allow him to slip out his shoulder and elbow.
    So I feel it’s better to pin smaller people with the arm solidly over the shoulder.
    If he’s a little bigger, slide it up a little.
    These are the main points for KKSG.
    Kamishiho-gatame (North-South; KSG hereafter)
    I’ll now explain the main points of KSG.
    In KKSG, I gripped over the partner’s shoulder, but in KSG I go over his upper arm and grip the belt on the side.
    Same with my left arm.
    In KSG, I can prevent my partner from rolling me over because I go over the upper arm to control my partner’s arms. So it’s an ideal technique for a small person to pin a large person.
    Just like this.
    As for my legs, I make an “L” with my ankles to keep my balance.
    I often see people who extend their legs back like this. They have no stability here.
    If they get twisted, they go right over.
    Also, if you do this your hips will be high and it will be difficult to keep your balance. It’s a very weak position if you get twisted.
    Therefore, get a nice bend in your ankles and, using both hands to pull the belt towards you, and control the partner.
    Move  a bit.
    Just like this
    If the partner is big, sometimes you can raise your hips up high like this to put all your weight on his chest.
    Because both your knees are off the mat, it’s easier to keep your balance.
    Just like that, I adjust to my partner’s movements so that our bodies are always in a direct line.
    That’s how you’ll maintain your position.
    This is the ideal way to maintain control with your upper body, but there are people who go over the shoulders as in KKSG.
    If you do this, the partner can escape using his shoulders.
    Just like that, he can escape using the strength of his shoulders, so be sure you go over the upper arm.
    Transitions from Kamishiho-Gatame
    I’ll now introduce some basic transitions from KSG.
    I have my partner in KSG, but if he gets his shoulder out….like this…
    Keeping tight, I transition to KKSG.
    I adjust the position of my legs and my body (so that we make a chevron shape)
    If my partner if even stronger…
    I quickly get a tight underhook on his arm and, keeping hold of the belt, transition to an armbar.
    Tateshiho-Gatame (TSG; Mount)
    Let’s move on to TSG. It’s very difficult to maintain your balance in TSG, but if you get the hang of it, it’s a very effective position.
    There are many ways to control the partner’s upper body in TSG. For example, like how you would in kata-gatame (arm triangle).
    Or wrapping his head like this and gripping you own belt.
    However, I recommend this control because it makes it easy to transition to different positions.
    I go over the shoulder and grip the belt at the lower back. Like this.
    I underhook his arm and maintain my balance with my hand and foot.
    This control is very convenient for transitioning to YSG and, from there, to KKSG.
    As for lower body control, I adjust based on my partner’s movements.
    For example, if he makes a big bridge, I grapevine his legs.
    Or I can cross my feet under his rear to control his hips.
    The partner might also bridge on a diagonal.
    I fold my right leg and cup his side with the sole of my foot.
    I sandwich his head and shoulder between my knee and arm.
    This is a very strong pin.
    Since it is quite difficult to maintain your balance, sometimes the partner will escape on you.
    You will definitely need to be able to make the following kind of transition.
    My partner bridges.
    If my grip breaks because of a strong bridge…
    I get my hand out and wrap up my partner’s arm.
    I go with it, lowering myself forward…and apply a joint lock.
    Or, if he bridges into me on the other side, I spin around and go for the armbar.
    Kesa-Gatame (Scarf Hold/Head and Arm) – Kata-Gatame (Arm Triangle)
    I’ll now explain kesa-gatame. This is usually the first pin beginners learn, but actually it’s very difficult.
    I don’t think it’s a suitable control for a small person against a large person. But it’s very effective in the reverse situation.
    What you immobilize is the partner’s arm. You pinch it against your side, grip the gi like this, and control him.
    You keep your balance with both legs and your right hand.
    So if your legs end up like this, you’ll have bad balance. So keep your legs wide and bring your heel close to your rear.
    There are people who hug the neck like this. If you do this and the partner grips your belt and tries to roll you over, you won’t be able to keep your balance. So I would avoid hugging the neck.
    Pinching the head lightly is enough. If he tries reverse you, you can quickly release your hand to post.
    Moving on, I’ll now explain kata-gatame.
    This is the basic position. However, if you apply your pressure to the base of the shoulder...right here…, the partner will escape by rolling backwards.
    So, rather that the shoulder, you should put pressure on the upper arm and neck.
    Like this. To prevent his rolling backwards…
    I put my right knee on his hip bone.
    Or I can grip my own lapel and maintain my position…like this.
    Ushiro Kesa-Gatame
    Now I’ll explain kuzure kesa-gatame (modified scarf hold). In the International Judo Federation’s terminology, it’s known as ushiro kesa-gatame (rear kesa-gatame).
    The basic position…is like this.
    However, I don’t consider this to be a very stable pin.
    It’s all right in the middle of a transition to, for example…KKSG.
    Or, sometimes you pin the partner by pinching his arm to your side like this.
    However, this too is by no means a stable position and you’ll need to transition.
    For example, from here you could move up into KKSG.
    There are other odd variations…For example, while applying a joint lock…
    This is also falls under the category of kuzure kesa-gatame.
    Uki-Gatame (Floating Hold)
    I’ll explain uki-gatame now.
    This pin is not recognized under the Kodokan rules. It’s only used under international rules.
    Usually, you’ll be trying for the armbar. The partner makes a strong defense.
    When you can’t get the armbar from this position, you transition into the pin.
    While controlling his legs with your elbow, you bend your leg like this and enter into the pin.
    As you can see, it’s not stable at all. However, because the referee must call the pin, the partner will probably release his hands. At that moment, you transition to the armbar.
    Rather than as a technique to win by, you should think of it as a transitional position for getting the armbar.

    How to Use the Legs:

    How to Use the Legs
    I’ll now explain how to make use of your legs.
    Using your legs to stay square with your partner is essential for people who use groundwork.
    Let’s get started.
    I start squared up with my partner like this. At first I have him move around.
    I move my body so that I always stay square with him.
    This is the most basic kind of practice.
    Once you can do that, next you have him use some feints.
    At some point, your partner will get around your legs.
    Something like this.
    When this happens I can’t use my right leg anymore, so I place my left foot here.
    And then I bring my right leg through and out.
    One more time.
    I’ll do it on the other side.
    Like this, I always try to stay square with my partner.
    When your opponent gets past, bring you leg over and shift your hips to square up.
    Practice this a lot.
    Once you’ve mastered that, you can go on to the next stage.
    Just as with tachi-waza, there’s grip fighting in groundwork too.
    My partner grips my knees. In tachi-waza terms, I’ve been out gripped.
    Or if I get my leg underhooked…Here I’ve completely lost the fight for grips.
    You have to avoid these situations. To that end, I drill these motions.
    Just like that. Let’s slow it down a bit…
    First, I use one of my legs to push my partner backwards to make some space…
    Yes, come forward a bit, please.
    Faster…We have a race.
     I push him way firmly to make space and bring my leg around quickly.
    You guys probably do this kind of exercise quite often.
    You it it in the situation we just discussed.
    Next, is if your partner grips your knees.
    This is an extremely dangerous situation. My partner will push down my knee…and attack.
    So if he gets grips on your knees…practice placing your foot here the moment he gets his grip.
    This part here. His hand can move around a lot, but its root, the shoulder, doesn’t move that much.
    So if you place your foot here, it won’t slip off that easily.
    One more time.
    He gets the grip, foot here right away.
    Many people don’t feel in danger when their knees are controlled.
    But it’s actually very dangerous, so as soon as you partner makes a grip, get the foot in there.
    And next, to deal with his other hand, bend your knee and grip his sleeve.
    If you extend your leg, his grip will come right off. Just like breaking a grip in tachi-waza.
    One more time.
    Just like this…
    And in reality I would go on the attack here.
    People often say, “It’s not good to be flat on your back. Sit up!” But actually this is a thoroughly offensive position.
    When defending, I think it’s better to have your back on the ground so your hips can move freely.
    One more time.
    People usually turtle up to defend in newaza. As much as possible, square up with your partner, facing him head on, and learn how to defend using your legs.

    Freeing the Leg:

    Freeing the Leg (Passing a Stalling Half Guard)
    A big problem in groundwork is freeing the leg.
    However, in today’s judo if you don’t get the leg out smoothly the referee will call mate.
    That’s why it’s essential to practice doing so quickly and efficiently.
    Let’s get started.
    To begin with, though it won’t actually happen like this, I have my partner apply niju-garami (lockdown) from this position.
    Just like this.
    Next, you place your knee on your partner’s hip bone.
    Once you’ve done that, you collapse yourself onto your partner like this.
    By taking this position, I can push my partner’s legs below my knee.
    When you use your legs like this, your partner won’t be able to trap your leg above the knee, i.e, around your thigh.
    Just like that. However, if your leg is extended…it will get wrapped up very deeply.
    Getting your leg out when it’s trapped above the knee like this is extraordinarily difficult.
    I think it’s pretty much impossible to do in shiai today. Mate will be called.
    Your partner’s aiming to wrap around your thigh, so if your leg is going to be trapped, at least make sure it’s below the knee.
    This is a very important position.
    One more thing…make sure your knee and shine are parallel with your partner’s thigh like this.
    I see this kind of thing a lot, but this is very bad form.
    He’ll work his legs up and get my thigh.
    During practice, always use this leg position and try to keep your partner from getting above your knee.
    With that, I’ll move on to how to actually get your leg out.
    First…I grip my partner’s pants below the knee.
    If you grip there, his pants won’t ride up past his knee.
    If you grab right at the knee, your grip will slide up to his thigh.
    You won’t be able to use your strength effectively.
    Always grip below the knee…like this.
    When you pull up, it will stop right at his knee.
    While pulling on his top leg, I’m going to kick his bottom leg, but first I bring my knee out like this.
    With the sole of my foot, I give his bottom leg a good kick…like this.
    One more time.
    He gets my leg.
    I bring my knee out.
    And now I push his thigh off my leg with the sole of my foot…so that I end up in this position.
    That’s one method.
    Another case is if my opposite leg is trapped.
    It’s the same thing here.
    I make sure my trapped leg is pressed against my other knee.
    I make this shape…and prevent my thigh from being trapped.
    Like this, only my lower leg is trapped.
    I’ll explain how to free the leg from here.
    As before, I grip my partner’s pants.
    While pulling his leg towards me, I push strongly against his thigh with my left foot.
    …And I get my leg out like this.
    When you free your leg, be sure to keep your grip on his knee.
    If you release the grip after freeing your leg, he’ll use that leg to bridge into you.
    So, by keeping this grip…
    I can stop his bridge. He can’t use this leg anymore.
    Even if he does manage to use it, you’ll be able to maintain your balance.
    So keep a hold of this knee.
    Also, from this position I can trap his hand before freeing my leg.
    We’ll practice this more in the next section, but all you do is quickly get your top hand under his arm, wrap it up, then grab his knee as before and kick his legs off you.
    I believe this is the most effective way of freeing the leg.
    But if you can’t get it out no matter what, if he’s got your leg in niju-garami, you’ll need another technique to transition to.
    Shime-waza (chokes) are a typical technique in this situation.
    As one example, from this position I pull my partner towards me and get a deep grip on his collar.
    And then, using my elbow, I work myself into this space, put my weight on him, and use my flank to finish the choke.
    One more time.
    Pull him towards you, get a deep collar grip, and then hug him under your armpit and apply your body weight.
    Also, you can hug his neck and go for sode guruma-jime (ezekiel).

    Grab the edge of your sleeve, pull it down towards your wrist, and quickly apply the choke.
    One more time.
    I can’t get my leg out.  
    I hug the neck. I get a grip on my sleeve, pull it down to my wrist, and then insert my wrist to choke.

    You’ll definitely need techniques to deal with being trapped in niju-garami, or another situation where you simply can’t get your leg out.

    Trapping the Arm:

    Trapping the Arm
    Now we’ll practice tying up the opponent’s arm.
    Trapping the arm in this way will open a door to many other techniques in groundwork.
    We’ll start with the basics.
    First, I straddle my partner’s head with my knees, like this. A basic underhook position.
    From here, I lock my fingers together with an S-grip and switch to an underhook with my other arm.
    I grab the gi and tie up his arm.
    One more time.
    In reality, my partner will be pinching his elbow to his side.
    I won’t be able to get my hand out that easily.
    And if I do get it out, my other hand won’t get in.
    Therefore I lock my fingers together like this, switch hands…and lock my wrist in place.
    If you grab your partner’s wrist…
    you’ll have to let go to grab his gi and he’ll escape by extending his arm.
    So when trapping an arm, I usually do not grip my partner’s wrist.
    I control like this.
    If you do it like this you can use your hand.
    And then find the best grip on the gi and pull it over his arm, sliding your hands together so there are no gaps.
    One more time.

    Just like that.
    Next, have your partner hold his arm up in the air like this…
    And practice wrapping it up from this position.
    Just like this.
    If I slow it down, from here I replace one arm with the other…like this.
    In reality I would then put pressure on my partner…using my body weight.
    And then, leaving no space, wrap up his arm.
    That’s the basic drill for practicing this technique.
    Next let’s look at how you can use it in an actual situation.
    Before we were talking about getting the leg out from a position like this.
    Let’s practice trapping his arm from here.
    First I flare the elbow of my underhooking arm to make some space.
    At the same time I lock my fingers together and switch my arms like before.
    Here I can control my partner’s arm.
    I get the hem of his gi jacket and slide it over his arm, staying nice and tight.
    Sometimes the opponent will hug your leg like this.
    This is an excellent opportunity to trap an arm.
    From here, I make my s-grip…
    and now I can trap his arm.
    By doing this, my other hand is freed up.
    And to get the leg out I then get my grip on his pants and kick his leg off.
    You should also practice trapping his arm when it’s up in the air.
    Like this.
    You need to be quick, so do lots of reps of this movement.
    Sometimes you do grab the wrist, however, like when going for ude-garami (kimura).
    To defend, my partner may grab his belt. When this happens you can easily trap his arm.
    One more time.
    I go for ude-garami, he grabs his belt, and I trap that hand.
    There are a lot of other situations where you’ll have a chance to trap an arm like this.
    Let’s go over some.
    Sometimes you grab a turtle opponent’s wrist to try to put him on his back.
    My partner switches his base (koshikiri) to defend.

    This position.
    He grabs his own belt or gi to prevent me from getting his arm.
    When this happens you can quickly grab the hem of his gi jacket with your left hand and pass it to your other hand to trap his arm.
    Just like this.
    Once you’ve done that, put an arm between his legs….

    And you can turn him over like this.
    Or, if you’ve managed to pull his hand out this far…

    You can trap his arm from behind.
    Once you’ve got this, one hand is now free so a lot of different attacks become possible.
    For example…

    You should be able to turn him over and move into a pin.
    In addition to that, when going for a joint lock, for example…

    When your partner makes a very strong defense and you can’t get the armbar…
    Switch hands and, while keeping pressure on your partner, pull the gi over to trap his arm.
    From here I get up and move into a pin.
    You can also trap an arm when going for a choke.
    I attack and my partner defends like this.
    From here…
    I grip the hem of his gi…and trap his arm.
    From a more realistic position…

    Like this. I go for the choke.
    From here I extend my hand…
    And get the front hem of his gi…like this.
    Once you have the arm trapped…
    You can transition to the armbar.
    As you can see, ion groundwork there are lots of opportunities to trap an opponent’s arm.
    Try to come up with some yourself.

    Osaekomi Tips:

    Essential Points for Mastering Osaekomi-waza (pins)
    All Osaekomi-waza are based on two essential points
    1.    Using your power to immobilize one part of the opponent’s body.
    2    Maintaining your balance.
    Five Tips for Maintaining Control
    1.   The belt is essential (grip with the thumb inside the belt).
    2.   Once you have a pin, always remind yourself, “adjust, adjust.” (If the opponent moves, your control is reduced; always maintain the ideal position).
    3. Feel what the opponent is about to do (maintain your balance by anticipating his movement).
    4.  Use the appropriate pin for your body type (just as is the case with nage-waza).
    5.  Pulling power, back strength, and flexibility are the three elements of groundwork (strength is also a technique; don’t neglect conditioning).
    Old Chestnut

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    Post by Old Chestnut on Thu Jun 13, 2013 4:48 pm

    Great! Will you be uploading this as an .srt file?

    Posts : 2
    Join date : 2013-06-13

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    Post by Taohn on Wed Jul 10, 2013 5:54 pm

    Old Chestnut wrote:Great! Will you be uploading this as an .srt file?

    Probably not...I don't know how and I've already broken it down into 20-30 second segments, so I thought it'd be easy enough someone more familiar with that stuff.

    Anyway, here's the next part:

    Attacking the Turtle:
    Part 2: A Selection of Attacks by Position

    Attacking the Turtle

    Following up After Stuffing Harai-makikomi, Etc.

    So now I’ll explain how to attack after stuffing techniques like harai-goshi or uchimata.

    I stuff his throw and get this position.

    I quickly grab his belt.

    This is to prevent him from standing up.

    As I pull him towards me… pincer his neck with my leg.

    I quickly get an underhook and move into YSG (side control).

    Next I’ll explain another attack from the same position for when the opponent closes his elbows and makes a strong defense.

    As I pull up with my hand I set my leg against his neck to raise him up.

    Be sure to keep a tight pinch.

    Stay tight and…

    Finish with the armbar.

    When you turn your partner over, it is very effective to hook your right foot inside his knee.

    Next, if he tries to block my leg with his hand, I take a big step around and put my foot under his armpit.

    I pull him towards me…

    Quickly trap his arm…go for a joint lock…or pin him in YSG.

    If your partner lies flat…When this happens plant your foot on the tatami…and grip here on his pants.

    Around the knee is best.

    From here, pick him straight up.

    You can then trap the arm and pin him.

    Again, if he’s flat I can go for the armbar like before…

    Squeeze tight…and pick him up.

    I make sure my right leg is glued to his chest.

    Then hug the arm…

    And finish with the armbar.

    Obitori-Gaeshi (Belt-Grab Reversal): Transitions and Variations

    I’ll now explain how flip over an opponent on all fours using obitori-gaeshi and some variations.

    My partner defends on all fours.

    I make a strong grip on his belt.

    I push aside his head with my knee and drop it to the mat.

    I insert my hand along with my knee to take an underhook…

    And get this position.

    Here I make sure not to bring my elbow inside.

    I open my right elbow wide, enough to reach the outside edge of his shoulder.

    Like this.

    Then I kick the mat with my left leg and flip my partner over sideways.

    As he goes onto his back, I enter into YSG.

    Of course you can transition to TSG as well.

    This is a variation for when my partner defends by posting his hand and foot.

    First, as before, I try to turn him over sideways.

    I commit to the motion enough for my body to come off the mat…I make this position.

    My partner will resist…When that happens I step in deep underneath him…

    Roll him straight backwards and finish in TSG.

    Once more from a different angle

    My partner resists. I try to flip him sideways to get this position.

    And from here…

    Flip him over backwards into the pin.

    If the opponent is strong, he might try to stand up.

    I use this technique when that happens. He stands up...

    I go with it and push him over backwards…

    Into this position.

    Another option for when he defends against being flipped over sideways…

    In this situation I release my right hand…

    And underhook him like this.

    Immediately I wrap his torso with my legs.

    I grip my own sleeve, then his sleeve with my other hand…

    Switch my hips (koshikiri)…come on top, and quickly bring my left leg up.

    And then I apply a joint lock.

    It’s very important to raise this leg.

    You can use this joint lock in another situation.

    My partner flattens my knee and moves in to attack.

    At that moment I underhook his arm…and, as before, grip my own sleeve, then his.

    Swith my hips, kick with this leg, and come on top.

    Raise the left leg quickly…and finish with the joint lock.

    I’ll now explain what to do if your partner has his elbows closed tightly and you can’t get the underhook.

    Just like before, I grip the belt and move his head aside with my knee…and get this position.

    Here I make sure my instep is flat on the mat. Like this.

    I grip his pants a little below the knee so that they stop right at the knee.

    I pull him towards me, then back the way he came and put my leg between his.

    This position.

    (1 hr +) 0006
    Most opponents will hug your leg, so from here I quickly underhook the arm…and trap his arm.

    Watch the basics section again for the discussion of this techniques.

    Nice and tight.

    From here, I grip his knee again…

    pull and kick just above his knee with my free leg. This position.

    Open his legs, hide mine, and pin in this position. I keep my grip on his pants.

    This is because I can prevent him from bridging.

    You can use this same technique when your partner is on all fours.

    Get a strong grip on his belt…

    Push his head aside, and get a good grip here, right at the knee.

    Put my instep on the mat…pull him towards me, then back…

    Into this position.

    While staying alert, underhook his arm, and trap it.

    While pulling his top leg towards yourself…and pushing his bottom leg down…

    Get your leg out. And keep the grip on his leg.

    There are many other techniques for when you can’t underhook the arm.

    Here’s one:

    I grab the hem of my partner’s gi jacket like this, pass my left arm across his belly, and hand it off.

    Like this.

    One more time.

    Pull and pass it to my other hand here.

    By pulling up with my arm I can now apply leverage to his hips, so I grab the belt…

    And turn him over like this. Immediately come on top.

    You can also grip the ends of his belt instead.

    Insert your hand under his arm (from the front)…

    Like this. And then grab the ends of his belt like this.

    From this position I pull him towards me…and turn him over.

    Release the grip and underhook his arm.

    If you just can’t seem to get an underhook…

    You can use obitori-gaeshi by going and his armpit and getting a deep grip on the far lapel, like this.

    I get into this position and then use my legs just as I did before.

    Your opponent will hug your leg, so immediately get the underhook, trap his arm, and free your leg for the pin.

    These techniques---grabbing the ends of the belt, the lapel, etc---lose about twenty or thirty percent efficiency, but you can use them when you can’t get a deep underhook.

    Drills for Obitori-gaeshi:
    When using obitori-gaeshi, especially when flipping the opponent over to the side, using your arms and legs in conjunction will prove very important.

    So now I’ll go over some drills to develop that coordination.

    I have uke take this position.

    I set my elbow and upper arm firmly on top of his thigh. Lock my hands together and…

    Using my knee as a spring to elevate my body…

    I kick strongly. This is how you can practice.

    Get into the habit of looking in the direction that you reverse the opponent in.

    Next I take an underhook and practice turning my partner over from this position.

    As before, I point my knee up and flip him over as if I was kicking the tatami.

    This is a very important drill.


    Crocodile Rolls:
    Crocodile Roll to Pin


    I’ll now explain a effective variation of obitori-gaeshi to turn the opponent over sideways if he is expecting the technique we’ve been practicing thus far.

    When I grip his belt like this and go to underhook his arm, he’ll pinch his elbows to his side to defend.

    I take advantage of that movement.

    Once more from a different angle.

    At the moment my wrist goes into his armpit…I throw my body underneath his.

    From here I quickly switch my base and move into YSG.

    Next, I’ll demonstrate this same technique in a situation where I have a grip under his armpit like this.

    I get a strong grip.

    This time, I insert my arm from the outside. As before, he’s going to close his elbows and I time my technique to take advantage of that.

    Attacks from Behind:
    Attacks from Behind

    Now I’ll introduce a few techniques to attack a turtled opponent from behind.

    First, I position myself directly behind my partner (with one leg inside). I grip his lapel from under his armpit.

    After I get my other leg inside, I roll on the diagonal as I thrust my arm down from the front.

    I pin my partner in KKSG.

    One more time.

    Pulling him tight to me…

    I spread his legs, switch my feet (hooks), and turn him around.

    I make a strong grip on the front of my partners belt.

    And by closing my elbows I prevent him from turning to his belly.

    For the next technique, I grip my partner’s lapel as before.

    From here I roll…

    And thrust my hand behind his neck.
    I quickly get up and finish with TSG.

    One more time.

    I grip his lapel. At the same time…

    I roll and move into TSG.

    For the next technique…I come under my partner’s arms to grip both lapels.

    I roll…and get into this kind of position.

    I hold him down with KSG.

    For all these techniques, make sure the opponent doesn’t trap your leg during the roll.

    If you get your leg wrapped up here you won’t be able to get it out.

    Therefore…during the roll…so that he doesn't get my leg…

    I lift him up and, kicking off the mat…I position myself like this.

    I make him roll over…and get chest-to-chest to finish with TSG.

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